DOLL PAINTS: all doll paints are sold in 1/4 oz. squeeze bottles. One bottle
will last you a LONG time! |
Titanium White
|
Titanium White is a stark, opaque white. I use titanium
white mixed only with water to apply 3-4 coats to the doll's eyeball,
and this gives a perfect "canvas" onto which you can paint
the doll's iris. You REALLY need BOTH titanium white AND zinc white.
|
 |
Zinc White
|
Zinc White is a soft, translucent, subtle white. When
you're trying to avoid the harsh opacity of titanium white, zinc white
offers a wonderful alternative. Zinc white is particularly useful when
you want to paint a glaze of a lighter color over a darker color. I
used zinc white on the doll above's eyeball to depict the reflection
of light on her iris. You REALLY need BOTH titanium white AND zinc white.
|
 |
Iridescent Pearl
|
A shimmery, pearly silver-white color. Thinned down
with water or retarder, and/or mixed with paint, you can create beautiful
shimmery eyeshadow shades. If you look at the picture of the doll's
eye above, you can see how I used the GOLD version of this paint as
a highlight below the doll's brow. The gold version is offered below,
but the silver version is just as pretty, and I think it's probably
more useful than the gold version. I wish I could capture the color
on the swatch to the left, but it basically looks like the inside of
a seashell. It's beautiful.
|
 |
Titan Buff
|
I guess you could call this a dark ivory. It's a creamy,
warm color. It's an interesting shade to use for eyeshadow on a doll,
particularly on the eyelid and as a highlight beneath the brow. You
can also mix it with red or pink if you want a lighter, pinker lip color,
and if you want to warm the pink up a little. Remember to mix it with
medium (offered below), because it is on the opaque side.
|
 |
Hansa Yellow
|
Hansa Yellow is a translucent yellow. If, for any reason,
you need an opaque yellow, just mix a little titanium white into your
hansa yellow.
|
 |
Yellow Ochre
|
Yellow Ochre is a dark, brownish yellow.
|
 |
Iridescent Gold
|
A shimmery, pearlescent gold. Thinned down with water
or retarder, and/or mixed with paint, you can create beautiful shimmery
eyeshadow shades. If you look at the picture of the doll's eye above,
you can see how I used this gold paint as a highlight below the doll's
brow.
|
 |
Raw Sienna
|
When I ordered it, I expected Raw Sienna to much more
brown than it is. However, it is very similar to yellow ochre.
|
 |
Burnt Umber
|
A classic medium brown color, burnt umber is perfect
for painting eyebrows, and it lends a very natural look to the irises
of dolls with brown eyes. It's also great for eyebrows.
|
 |
Raw Umber
|
Raw Umber is a pretty, neutral dark brown, perfect for
painting the dark ring around a brown-eyed doll's iris!
|
 |
Burnt Sienna
|
Burnt Sienna is a reddish brown.
|
 |
Red Iron Oxide
|
One of my favorite colors, Red Iron Oxide is a translucent,
dark brown orange.The color to the left may not look like much, but
once you see this paint in person, you'll understand why I love it so
much. It's perfect for glazing because it does not have any opacity
to it, and it lends an unbelievable sense of realism when painted in
flecks onto a doll's eyes. I used it on the irises of the doll pictured
above.
|
 |
Violet Oxide
|
Violet Oxide is not as translucent as alizarin crimson
(below). Violet Oxide is basically a brownish burgundy color. It's very
useful for dark shading on lips. Contrary to its name, it doesn't look
violet at all. If anything, the pigment may impart a VERY slight hint
of plum to the brownish base, but only a very trained eye would notice
the plum tint.
|
 |
Alizarin Crimson
|
One of my favorite colors, Alizarin Crimson is a translucent,
dark crimson red. Perfect for mixing with medium and creating a natural-colored
glaze for lips, and also perfect for mixing it with other colors to
create other lip shades. It's a universally natural-looking color for
a doll's lips, and it's a must-have.
|
 |
Napthol Red
|
Napthol Red is your basic, primary red. It's a must-have
simply because it's a primary color, so it's very necessary for you
to have in order to mix other colors from it.
|
 |
Opera Rose
|
I would really call this color magenta or fuchsia. Painted
in a thin glaze, it will take on a brighter and more vivid tone, but
painted in thick layers, it will look darker and more subdued. Very
versatile, and great for lips!
|
 |
Rose Pink
|
Rose Pink is not made by the same manufacturer as the
majority of our paints, so you'll find that it's of a slightly thicker
consistency. It's not highly-pigmented, but that's what I like about
it: in the bottle, it looks like a shocking, fluorescent pink. However,
once you paint it onto your doll, you'll notice that it's a subtle,
translucent, rosey pink, and it's a really useful color to have!
|
 |
Dioxazine Purple
|
This is the perfect purple color!
|
 |
Ultramarine Violet
|
Slightly bluer than Dioxazine Purple, and also lighter
and more translucent.
|
 |
Prussian Blue
|
Prussian Blue is a dark navy blue, perfect for painting
the dark ring around a blue-eyed doll's iris!
|
 |
Phthalo Blue
|
It's really difficult to capture this color in hexadecimal
code, so remember that the paint that you will receive will be a lot
more vibrant than the color that you see to your left. Phthalo blue
is on the darker side, but not as dark as prussian blue, and it's slightly
greener than prussian blue. It's also a lot more vibrant than prussian
blue.
|
 |
Manganese Blue
|
An absolutely gorgeous translucent blue color! On a
blue-eyed doll, this color would be awesome. I have yet to use it on
my own dolls, but I'm very excited to use it!
|
 |
Cobalt Teal
|
More on the opaque side, and great for painting the
light-colored part of a doll's iris before you go over it with darker
glazes, this color is such a pretty seafoam blue-green color!
|
 |
Phthalo Turquoise
|
It's just an incredible color to see in person. It reminds
me of a translucent version of viridian green, for those of you who
are familiar with paint pigments. You have to see it to realize how
beautiful it is.
|
 |
Permanent Green Light
|
I would describe this as a classic kelly green color.
It would be awe-inspiring for a green-eyed doll, to really make her
eyes pop with bright color.
|
 |
Chromium Oxide Green
|
Chromium Oxide Green is a subtle, grayed-down medium
green. Along with sap green (below), it's perfect for painting green-eyed
dolls.
|
 |
Sap Green
|
Sap Green is a gorgeous, translucent dark green, perfect
for painting the dark ring around a green-eyed doll's iris!
|
 |
Shimmering Iron Oxide
|
Shimmering iron oxide is a translucent charcoal-colored
paint with tiny flecks of hematite ore embedded in it. These tiny flecks
of metal cause the paint to shimmer and sparkle! This color would really
add some drama to a doll's eyeliner!
|
 |
Carbon Black
|
Your basic black- indispensable and quite necessary!
|
 |
Clear Gloss Sealant
|
Clear gloss sealant is a must-have. Not only might you
want to use it to give the doll's lips a glossy finish, but you'll need
to use it to seal the eyeballs as well. I use it not only for sealing
my paints after my painting is finished, but I also use it to give an
ultra-smooth surface onto which to apply my glazes. For instance, after
painting the doll's eyeball with titanium white paint, I will seal this
layer of titanium white paint with the gloss sealant, and after that,
I have a completely brushstroke-free and unporous surface onto which
I can begin painting the iris. This gloss finish is very forgiving if
you make a mistake with your glaze, as you can wipe the glaze off of
it before it dries. Also, an unsealed coat of paint is very porous,
and porosity is not a good thing when you're applying glazes. Remember
to seal your titanium white eyeballs with this gloss sealant before
you start painting the irises, and you'll be good to go! Normally, I
use it straight out of the bottle, without mixing it with any water.
Sealants will give your paint a protective finish.
|
 |
Clear Matte Sealant
|
TEMPORARILY OUT OF STOCK
Clear matte sealant is also a must-have. Certain areas
of the face, particularly the eyelids, will need to be given a matte
finish... as you know, skin is not glossy! This matte sealant is normally
too thick straight out of the bottle, so I like to mix it with 50% water
before applying it to the doll. This high quality matte sealant will
not cause any cloudiness to occur with your paints, unlike some of the
cheaper matte sealants! Sealants will give your paint a protective finish.
|
 |
Clear Satin Sealant
|
Clear satin sealant is basically really only useable
on the lip area, but it's a wonderful sealant to use when you don't
want the lips to be too glossy or too matte. It imparts a subtle sheen
to the surface of the paint, and it's very pretty. Sealants will give
your paint a protective finish.
|
 |
Retarder
|
Retarder is also a must-have. This retarder has the
consistency of water, and what it will do for you is it will retard
(slow down) the drying time of your paints, which is a necessity when
you're painting certain features, like eyelashes. Have you ever had
your paintbrush dry out mid-eyelashstroke? So frustrating! That will
not happen anymore with this retarder. Remember , it's only going to
retard drying time by about a minute or so, so you'll still need to
work quickly with it, but I truly don't know what I would do without
it.
When painting eyelashes, press down slightly with the
brush, and then, as you paint your brushstroke, lift away from the doll
with your brush as you move it along. This will allow you to create
tapered eyelash hairs.
|
 |
Medium
|
Medium is also a must-have, because it allows you to
create glazes and blend colors, which is absolutely necessary for realistic-looking
dolls. This medium has a paint-like consistency, so it's definitely
not as watery as the retarder. After I've painted the white iris with
titanium white paint, and after I've sealed the titanium white paint
with gloss sealant, I will mix this medium with one of the darker-colored
paints, and I will begin painting the iris. If you look at your own
eyes, you'll see that your iris does not have a sharp delineation into
the white of your eye- the color blends a little bit. So, by painting
this iris in 3-4 glazes of thin color, you not only attain a more natural-looking
repaint, but it's also more forgiving in case you aren't able to paint
a perfect circle on your first try. With a really thin glaze of paint,
you can refine your circle by applying more layers of glaze, eventually
attaining a dark-colored iris, which will be the foundation for the
rest of the eye's paint. After you've painted the dark iris, you'll
apply light-colored paint to the iris in layers of glaze as well. After
that, you'll paint glazes of the darker flecks of color on top of the
light-colored paint, and that will give the eyes depth and realism.
Glazes allow the colors underneath them to still show through, and you
can see this if you look at the doll's eye above. You can also do wet-into-wet
techniques with this medium, which will allow you to blend one color
into another and create gradient effects. In addition, if you look at
the photo above, you'll notice that I mixed a very small amount of black
paint into my medium, and I used this mixture as a glaze to create a
shadow on the eyeball underneath the upper eyelashes. You really do
need medium in order to paint a doll successfully!
|
 |
Pure Acetone
|
Pure Acetone is the best thing to use if you want to
remove your doll's factory paint. Just soak a q-tip in the acetone,
and then "scoop" (don't rub) the paint off. A toothpick dipped
into pure acetone is also a wonderful tool for cleaning up any part
of your repaint and refining any lines. After using pure acetone, remember
to swab your doll's face with a mixture of baking soda and water, which
will neutralize any remaining acetone.
|
 |
-Check back in the future for new colors of
paint! |