Doll Hair- DOLLYHAIR.COM Saran and Nylon for rerooting

DOLLYHAIR.COM Saran®, Nylon® doll hair for doll rerooting, many hot*** colors!

Tina Amantula

website owner and webmaster

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REROOT TOOL ORDERING PAGE

Scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the illustrated tutorial on how to use the tool!

The NEW and IMPROVED, METAL reroot tool! Previously, Dollyhair's reroot tool was made of wood. This wooden tool caused problems on occasion, because sometimes, the wood was too soft, and that caused the pronged needle to get pushed too deeply into the wood, which rendered the tool ineffective. This NEW metal reroot tool won't have any of those problems! It can be taken apart, and consists of FIVE different pieces: two dual-ended collets, a chuck, a handle, and the end piece.

If you're familiar with how a drill or a Dremel works, you'll understand how the tool is assembled and how it holds the needle in place. As I said, the tool actually comes with two dual-ended collets, thus giving you four collets total, but you will only be using one of the collets. It is the one that will already be holding the pronged needle in place when you receive it. The collet is placed inside the chuck, and the chuck is screwed onto the handle. The tighter you screw the chuck onto the handle, the more tightly the collet will hold the needle in place. You can loosen the chuck and push the pronged needle into the tool more deeply, or you can pull the needle out further, so this tool also gives you more versatility than the old tool did, as far as how deeply you want the hair to be rooted into the doll's head. If you unscrew the collet, you can pull the pronged needle out completely and change it out with the pointed needle, or with a new pronged needle if you happen to break the old needle! So you see, this new tool works in exactly the same way that the old tool did. Sometimes you'll be using the pointed needle, and sometimes you'll be using the pronged needle. The only difference is that you'll now be switching between them instead of having a dual-ended tool, but I think that the new tool will serve your needs much better than the old tool. Stored inside the handle of the tool, you will find the other two collets. You don't need them for anything as far as doll rerooting, unless you opt to buy some of the larger sized needles offered below, but the tool is so handy that you'll probably find a lot of different uses for it, and the two extra collets may be appropriate for other things that you might want to put inside the tool.

The reroot tool features a needle has had its eye sawed off at an angle, in order to create a prong. You would use this prong to push the hair into the doll's head. The larger needle is simply a sharp needle, used to poke the holes into the head in order to widen them for use with the pronged needle. This is not the most secure method to root your doll, but it's fairly secure, and you can make it 100% secure if you're able to remove the doll's head and put a little bit of glue inside it once your rerot is finished. DO NOT use krazy glue. It can seep out of the holes and stiffen your doll's roots, ruining your reroot. I prefer to use FABRI-TAC glue, made by Beacon Adhesives.

I am now selling one ounce bottles of Fabri-Tac glue for $3.50. If you would like to purchase a bottle of the best glue you'll ever use, you can add it to your cart below.

I just squirt a little glue into the head and swirl it around with a q-tip to make sure that it gets into every little crevice.

NOW, you may remember that I have always been concerned about the reroot tools made by other sellers. In fact, I used to warn people against using them because they can cause scalp splits. But I started thinking that the theory behind the design was pretty good. I decided to make a vast improvement upon the design of the tool, and I started making the tools myself. The pronged needle on MY reroot tool is VERY small... small enough not to cause scalp splits. My tool is also different from other sellers' reroot tools in that it features a sharp needle for poking holes, and, of course, the fact that it's much more durable because it's metal. If you poke through the holes in your doll's head with the pointed needle, you will widen the holes enough to allow the pronged end to go through without causing scalp splits. I made my own dolls the "guinea pigs", and I've tested this tool on three dolls so far: a regular Barbie, a Silkstone Barbie, and a Tyler Wentworth doll... ALL of the reroots came out with GREAT success, and NO scalp splits! AND they went SO MUCH quicker than the needle and thread method!

Don't forget to scroll all the way down the page so you can see the tutorial on how to use the tool!

REROOT TOOL KIT:

includes:

1) The reroot tool

2) Two pronged size 8 replacement needles and one larger, interchangeable sharp needle for poking holes in the head

NOTICE: Inevitably, your pronged needles will break once in a while. That's why the kit includes two replacement needles. Obviously, you will need to remove the broken needle from the tool. Just unscrew the chuck a little bit, pull the broken needle out, place a new needle inside the tool, and screw the chuck to to tighten it around the new needle.

You can order additional replacement needles for $1.00 apiece by clicking below:

REROOT TOOL REPLACEMENT NEEDLE:

You can now choose from varying sizes of needles! The reroot tool normally comes with standard size 8 needles. If you find that the size 8 needles aren't right for your project, then you have the option of ordering smaller or larger needles! Remember, the smaller your needle is, the more chance there is of the needle breaking while doing your reroot. However, the larger the needle, the more chance you'll have of splitting your doll's head open. So the idea that you're shooting for is to use the smallest size needle that's appropriate for your project, and if it breaks once in a while, then that's ok. If your needle is breaking very often, then you may want to consider going with a larger size.

Size 10 needles are appropriate for only the finest reroots, where you want to make sure that the holes poked into the doll's head aren't visible. Reborn baby dolls, for instance, would fall into this category. Size 4 needles would be appropriate for very large dolls with thick vinyl heads, like a My Size Barbie doll, for instance.

Regular Barbie dolls should be rooted with standard size 8 needles, while Tonner/Gene dolls and Silkstone Barbies would probably be better off with size 7 needles.

These are just my suggestions, and you should use whatever size you feel most comfortable with.

With some of the larger needles, you may have to use one of the larger collets that are already included with your reroot tool.

You can also order Fabri-Tac glue, the best glue you'll ever use, by clicking below. Put a little bit of this glue inside the doll's head after your reroot is finished to ensure a 100% secure hold, and swab it around with a q-tip.

Fabri-Tac Glue :

one 1 oz. bottle of glue

Look below to see the illustrated tutorial which shows you how to use the reroot tool. REMEMBER, the tutorial below shows the OLD reroot tool. HOWEVER, YOU will receive the NEW, METAL reroot tool, and the metal reroot tool is used EXACTLY the same way as the old tool.

REROOTING TUTORIAL:

(click the photos to see them close-up)

	Step 1: Select your doll, and remove her hair. This can be done easily by cutting her hair as short as possible, and then removing the head and pulling the plugs out with small pliers or tweezers, going in through the neck hole. Once you have a bald doll, paint her head with acrylic paint, using the same color paint as the hair to be rooted. I didn't paint the head for the tutorial because I wanted the hair and the head to have contrasting colors for better viewing purposes in the photos.
	Step 2) Here's the reroot tool. Notice that it has two different needles, one on each end. One end is pronged, and the other is pointed. NOTE: The NEW METAL TOOL will COME WITH a pointed needle, but you'll have to remove the pronged needle from the tool in order to insert the pointed needle.
	Step 3) Notice that the pronged needle consists of a long prong and a short prong.
	Step 4) Using the pointed needle, poke into the pre-existing holes in the doll's head. This is not necessary for the softer headed dolls, like Barbie (but it never hurts to do it), but it makes your reroot a LOT easier if you're rerooting one of the harder headed dolls, like a Silkstone Barbie or Tonner doll. The pointed end can also be used to poke new holes into your doll's head. This is good for creating a new part, for instance.
	Step 5) Separate a small section of hair from the larger hank, and hold it between your fingers. You will want to hold it between your fingers like this: Your index finger and your middle finger will grasp the top part of the hair, while your ring finger and thumb will grasp the bottom part of the hair (see photo). Trust me, this is the easiest way.
	Step 6) Still holding the hair between your fingers like I suggested in step 5, bring the hair toward the doll's head, and hold it a few millimeters away from the specific hole that you intend to root.
	Step 7) Using the pronged needle, and with the long prong facing toward the hair (important), "grab" a small section of hair between the prongs, and drag the small section toward the hole that you intend to root.
	Step 8) Push the hair into the hole, and push the needle all the way into the head, until the wood touches the doll's head.
	Step 9) Pull the needle out, and voila! You've just rooted your first plug of hair. Repeat steps 7 and 8 until the whole head is rooted. When your reroot is finished, it's a very good idea to put a little glue inside the head so that the hair will not come out when brushed. DO NOT use krazy glue. It can seep out through the holes because it is too liquid. I prefer to use Fabri-Tac glue. You may order Fabri-Tac glue from this website, if you wish. Scroll up to add it to your cart. Elmer's glue should be fine too, but remember that Elmer's is water soluble even when it's dry (boil permers beware), so Fabri-Tac is the best choice. Just squirt a glob of glue into the head, and swab it around with a q-tip to ensure that all of the hair inside the head has been covered in glue.
IMPORTANT: When rooting holes that are very close together, like they are at the hairline and the part line, you can GREATLY reduce your chances of scalp splits if you root the head certain way: Make sure that the prongs of the needle are perpendicular to the line of close holes. Please see the photos below.